Ever so rarely, you experience a wine that takes you on a journey. Flirting with perfection, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vineyard rushes out the glass like a rollercoaster, with an array of fruit, earth and oak aromas. With just enough volatility to lift you out of your seat, yet supported by a lap-bar of energetic acidity to keep it firm and tight, the wine banks into the first turn, expressing fresh, heady aromas of Chambord, cocoa nibs, baked earth and resinous purple flowers, then elements of baking spices cascade across the nose. Full-bodied and riding through a loop, the palate opens to chocolate-covered blueberries and crème de cassis, before exploding through a kaleidoscope of black and blue-fruited goodness. Through the long, winding finish, all I can do is put my hands up, grin from ear to ear and enjoy the rest of the ride, proving that the Galitzine Vineyard Cabernet is the clear champion of the range this year. The moment that the experience is over, you'll be running back to get back in line to have another sip. 1,171 cases produced. Absolutely stellar!

Lastly, and I think the standout in the lineup in 2017, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vineyard is an incredible wine that's a candidate for the wine of the vintage in 2017. Coming all from Red Mountain, its deep ruby/purple hue is followed by a mammoth-sized bouquet of white chocolate, candied violets, lead pencil shavings, and graphite, all grounded by loads of dark, meaty black and blue fruits. This beauty is full-bodied, has flawless balance, loads of ripe tannins, and a great, great finish. It's more backward and structured than the Columbia Valley release, so give bottles at least 4-5 years. It will be a 30-year wine.

Bright medium ruby. Brooding, slightly inky, pungent scents of blackberry, blueberry, cassis, licorice, menthol and bitter chocolate. Densely packed but utterly fine-grained and sweet, with dark berry, dark chocolate and violet flavors dominating in the early going. Extremely unevolved even if its texture is pliant. Finishes with pungent notes of licorice pastille, violet and bitter chocolate and building, palate- saturating tannins. Seriously structured wine for a slow evolution in bottle. I find this a bit less sweet, with its tannins a bit more noticeable, than the flagship wine, as well as higher- pitched. I'd love to taste these two wines side by side again in about ten years. (this was the first year the Golitzin family had full ownership and control of this vineyard, which is located due north of Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain).