One of the finest blends of its kind, the La Proportion Dorée (Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and a dollop of Muscadelle) reminds me of a California version of the limited production Château Haut-Brion Blanc, even though that wine has less Semillon and no Muscadelle. The 2013 Proprietary White La Proportion Dorée is composed of 67% Semillon, 31% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle from 29-year-old, dry-farmed vineyards. There is only a single cluster per shoot, which results in tiny yields. The wine is barrel-fermented with frequent lees stirring. A killer white, it is full-bodied with notes of caramelized lemon candy, honeysuckle, candle wax, flowers and tropical fruit marmalade. Crisp and fresh with the oak pushed to the background, this amazing white wine should drink well for at least 4-5 years, possibly longer.

The 2013 La Proportion Doree, Morlet's blend of Semillon and Sauvignon, is textured, open-knit and super-expressive today. Lemon confit, white flowers, chamomile, mint, lightly honeyed notes and white orchard fruit are nicely delineated throughout, but it is the wine's density and textural richness that stand out most. This is a rich, layered white meant for the dinner table, so it needs to be paired with similarly bold foods. A dollop of Muscadelle adds texture on the oily, generous finish. There is a lot to like. The Proportion Doree is one of the highlights in this range.